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Mike’s, London SE15: ‘This is why we bother to put on pants and go out to eat’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurant

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s A deceptively humble pizza joint serving fancy toppings on serious slices Nobody ever signed up to be a restaurateur because of their love of carpentry or flat-pack gazebo assembly, but in recent weeks, a flair for such things must have been a positive boon. “If you build it, they will come,” has been the latest mantra for cafe, bar and bistro owners desperate to open their doors. I’ve watched agog on Instagram as an ambitious timber pergola with a corrugated plastic roof was hammered, glued and hoisted together at Mike’s, a brand new pizza place in Peckham, south-east London....

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